Snapshot Traveler

South Beach belly alert

Sun, 14 Apr 2013 11:06:00 -0500

Beware: It’s easy to get your belly on in South Beach. Our culinary exploits extended past the South Beach border, but we easily could have had our fill here. However, our venture out landed some tasty finds.

First, let’s talk burgers. I’m always amazed at how much range in taste a burger offers – from their seasonings and heft to the condiments and bread choice holding it all together in a perfect package of yumminess. Yes, I’m a burger fan.

We got our first fix at Five Napkin Grill with its original burger. Gruyere cheese, caramelized onions, rosemary aioli – need I say more? Yum!

Five Napkin Grill

Yet we were told there was even a better place to try at the Burger & Beer Joint.

Our gut demanded some exercise before our next feast, so we pedaled our way to lunch. Side note: One of the best ways to see South Beach is by bike. Despite traffic challenges in parts, some streets have an entire lane dedicated to putting your feet to the pedal.

Now back to lunch. With names like Stairway to Heaven, Mustang Sally, Turning Japanese and Fly Like an Eagle, I knew I’d be singing this place’s praises. As if the ample burger combinations didn’t give you enough options, you could build your own burger from a choice of prime angus, wagyu, turkey, chicken and ahi tuna. The bun, cheese and sauce options are just as impressive. There’s brie, prosciutto, pan-seared foie gras, red onion marmalade, black truffle demi and walnut pesto – to name a few sidekicks. Heck yeah!

Trying to muster up a little restraint, I opted for the turkey burger with cheddar and grilled jalapeños on a whole-wheat bun. It was pure delight without the guilt. My hubby went for the Thunder Road with bourbon barbecue sauce and smoked Duroc pork belly bacon. Need I say more?

The Burger & Beer Joint has an impressive selection of beers – even one that’s gluten-free

Love the joint’s graffiti-covered brick columns

For a more refined taste, plan to visit to the Miami Design District around lunch at Michael’s Genuine Food and Drink. This place is worth the taxi ride for lunch or dinner. Fresh, simple and pure it promises and delivers with locally sourced food. Even a simple salad had me savoring every bite.

Simple greens with heirloom tomatoes

Short rib and fontina cheese panini with heirloom tomato chutney

The slow roasted berkshire pork pizza with mission figs, grilled onions, fontina cheese and arugula

After an rewarding lunch, walk around the Design District to find more stylistic inspiration. Lighting, tiles and funky furniture collections, art galleries and specialty clothing stores are fun to explore. Still in development, the neighborhood intentionally combines shopping, cultural and culinary experiences.

Anya Ponorovskaya boutique
Bobby Berk Home storeWalking down N.E. 2nd Avenue in the Miami Design District

If steak is calling, Prime 112 is the place to dine. We were warned that even with reservations, you’re likely to wait, which we did for about 45 minutes. If you’re able to score a seat at the bar, the wait is worth it. Need a snack to tide you over? Help yourself to a slice of bacon, the bar snack fancifully displayed in a cocktail glass.

Looking for some down-home comfort food with an upscale twist? Head to Yardbird Southern Table & Bar, a James Beard Foundation Award for Excellence semi-finalist for best new restaurant and best chef (south) for 2012. From start to finish and despite the hefty servings, each course leaves you wanting just a taste more as they remove your plates.

Cocktails before dinner at the Yardbird Southern Table & Bar

Fried green tomato BLT with tomato jam and house-made pimento cheese, mama’s chicken biscuits with pepper jelly, and a heavenly pasta dish served with duck meatballs were a few highlights. Add to it the fun, lively vibe and it’s easy to see how this could quickly become a regular dining spot if your lived in South Beach.

Zuma, a Japanese restaurant in downtown Miami offers a modern, fresh taste and feel. The spice yellowtail roll with serrano pepper and wasabi mayo was a meal favorite. It’s definitely worth the visit and was a nice contrast to some of our heavier meals.

Next up, Casa Tua offered a cozy and tasteful dining experience. As you enter the iron gates and step into the villa, it feels like you have a special invitation to a dinner party. OK, so it’s a dinner party where you don’t know anyone and you’re likely seated just inches away from strangers that you’re expected to ignore. That aside, the meal was fabulous. We enjoyed dishes of pappardelle lamb ragu with pistachio crumble and tagliatelle with mushroom, Burgundy black truffle and parmesan cheese fonduta.

For one of our last culinary acts, we chose to have lunch at Joe’s Stone Crab. The restaurant has stood the test of time, recently celebrating a 100-year anniversary and still owned by the original family. Stone crab claws were in season, so we decided to go for it. If you like crab claws, I’m sure they’re great, but in the words of my husband, “Why would you love crab claws?” They weren’t bad, just not worth the work or price of admission. Next time for a splurge, I’m sticking to king crab legs and not getting lured into a seasonal trap.

Like our meal choices, most of what we found in Miami and South Beach we thoroughly enjoyed. While our first impression left us questioning why people regularly flock here, the more we explored, dined and appreciated its beauty beneath the surface, the more we could see ourselves returning. Find a bike, get off the beaten path and be open to the surprises that unfold.

South Beach view through our almost half-full water bottle at The James Royal Palm hotel

Deco'd out in South Beach

Mon, 08 Apr 2013 22:22:00 -0500

One thing I didn’t expect upon arrival in South Beach is the massive amount of Art Deco architecture lining its streets.

With about 750 Art Deco buildings within a square mile, South Beach is home to one of the world’s largest concentrations, according to our tour guide with the Miami Design Preservation League. The organization’s daily tour is worth the $20 fee and provides insights not just into the characteristics of this architectural style, but also the history of this beachside neighborhood.

Our tour group assembles outside the Art Deco Welcome Center

The Beach Patrol Headquarters resembles a cruise ship with its nautical deco design

Historical Perspective
What started out as a snake-thriving, mosquito-infested locale turned into a coconut-producing plantation in the late 1800s. That is until the employees decided the working conditions were a bit too inhospitable, leading to its eventual demise.

Many other investors followed recognizing South Beach’s potential as an avocado farm, a bathhouse and eventually a resort and shopping destination. Its mark on the map came after investors built a bridge connecting it to Miami and dredged the Biscayne Bay making it more accessible to tourists. Fill from the bay now serves as the foundation of some of Miami’s exclusive island neighborhoods.

Fast forward several decades. With construction stalled during the winter months on the East Coast, unions workers migrated to South Beach in search of employment. In the 1920s and 30s, they found ample opportunity to apply their skills to this booming playground for the rich.

Recalling the fine weather and hotels they constructed years earlier, many of the workers returned to retire and live in the same residences they built, according to our guide. As some of the buildings fell into disrepair, developers threatened to tear them down before the Miami Design Preservation League stepped in to save them.

Learning the lingo
So how did Art Deco get its name? Its origins come from the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris, where the century’s first 25 years of architecture and design were celebrated. Our guide told us the “frozen fountain” motif, which resembles a spouting ionic column and is found on some Art Deco buildings, is a symbol from the exposition.

The Congress Hotel features a frozen fountain motif, eyebrows and a wavy frieze along its roofline

Features of the Art Deco buildings include their symmetrical, three-story construction. Keeping them to three stories kept costs down by eliminating the need for elevators. Without air conditioning, eyebrows to help keep out the sun and casement windows allowing for maximum ventilation became a functional part of the design.

Reinforced concrete construction also minimized expenses. Decorative friezes with waves reflected the local environment. What you won’t find in an Art Deco building are balconies – unless they’re part of an addition.

Known as the place to see and be seen, The Carlyle has been featured in movies including “Scarface” and “The Birdcage”

Several Art Deco buildings are empty or under construction in the area

Lobby of the Victor Hotel

Ray gun light fixture

Another interior shot of the Victor

Taking part in the tour gave us a better appreciation for the Art Deco, Mediterranean Revival and MiMo (Miami Modern) architectural styles that give a visual, historical context to the neighborhood. If you find yourself hungry for more cerebral pursuits while in South Beach, get your fill with the league’s 90-minute walking tour that begins at its headquarters at 10th and Ocean Boulevard. It’s worth every step.

Miami vice? You can find it in South Beach

Sun, 07 Apr 2013 09:55:00 -0500

If you want to let it all hang out, come to South Beach. You certainly won’t feel underdressed sporting a bikini as you stroll Ocean Boulevard. However, I applied the rule of it never hurts to overdress for the occasion.

Described as an outdoor Las Vegas, we fully anticipated its party vibe. The Sin City crowd is definitely a target audience. As we looked toward the surf, floating billboards and airplane banners crisscrossed the beach to promote Vegas’ hottest nightclubs. At one point on a Saturday afternoon, six airplanes dangled their messages overhead as we walked along the beach.

We didn’t stay up long enough to see the Saturday night Ocean Boulevard scene unfold. Based on the energy displayed by 5 p.m., I have no doubt it’s a spectacle. Even at that time, pimped rides from reconditioned Bel Airs to souped-up Ferraris dragged the street with dueling beats of rap, rock and techno music pounding from their speakers.

Fortunately, the beach front is protected as a public park with a beautiful wending path filled with racks of bikes to share, volleyball courts and open-air gym areas – all for a fit and beautiful to entertain and be entertained.

First impressions are lasting ones. But the next few days revealed a side to South Beach and Miami that I hadn’t anticipated. It’s another reminder not to let your first impressions blind you to the deeper charms and beauties that lie within a place.

36 Hours to ponder

Sun, 06 Jan 2013 09:10:00 -0600

It’s easy to get lost in Internet-search bunny trails when trip planning. To add a little focus to your exploration, a great jumping off point is The New York Times ”36 Hours” series.

Thanks to my cousin and goddaughter for giving my husband and me a beautiful bound collection of 150 weekends in the USA and Canada for inspiration. I love the hit list of off-the-beaten path attractions it offers. Convenient color-coded ribbons help mark your spot in its five geographical sections.

From headline cities like Boston and Los Angeles to the more sedate Boise, Idaho, and St. Simons Island, Ga., there’s a place for any mood or interest. The index in the back even lists cities by outdoor activities, nightlife, atmosphere, culture type, special interests, history and one-of-a-kind features.

While it’s not a substitute for other reference points, it’s a great resource for your first look at a location or pondering your next weekend getaway.

As we plan our return road trip from Las Vegas to Los Angeles with a stop along the way in Death Valley National Park, it has been a source for fresh and fun ideas. Some suggestions include stargazing at Griffith Park Observatory in LA and visiting Death Valley’s sand dunes in mid-morning when the shadows are long and cool.

My only disappointment with “36 Hours” is Tulsa wasn’t included in the collection of 150 places. With the great strides my hometown is making in developing its downtown and attracting businesses here, I hope it won’t be long before Tulsa is on the map and in the book.

If you have some other go-to travel research books, apps or website suggestions, I’m all ears.

Bring it 2013: Travel resolutions for the New Year

Wed, 02 Jan 2013 08:21:00 -0600

I admit it. I love New Year resolutions. That probably won’t come as a surprise to the people who know me.

A new year is a fresh start. It’s a time of contemplation. It’s a place on the calendar to mark your good intentions.

So here it goes. Topping my list of resolutions this year is the more dedicated practice of reflection, especially when it comes to my travels. That’s where Snapshot Traveler comes into the picture.

In the spirit of reflection, here are my travel-related resolutions based on learning moments in 2012.

Resolution 1: Say yes more.
I’m a shy person by nature, so I’m stepping out of my comfort zone when I connect with people during my travels. In most cases, it has ended up being a rewarding experience when I say yes to trying something new - whether it’s a game of ring toss with a local in Beijing or trying the roadside juice ladled out of a plastic barrel in Manzanillo, Mexico. On second thought, it’s OK to say no to a few things.

During a Sunday stroll at the Temple of Heaven in Beijing, a friendly gentleman invited Don to join him in a game of ring toss. Little did we know Don had a talent for catching these colorful, fabric circles with his head.

Resolution 2: Don’t be camera shy.
The more you bring out your camera, the better shots you’re going to get. I love the saying of “f/8 and be there.” I learned it at a photography workshop when I was in my 20s. It’s a good travel philosophy. Getting the shot can come down to putting yourself in the best position to capture it. Whether it’s getting chatty with a vendor or hanging back to watch a scene unfold, take your time and have your camera ready. At the same time, it sometimes means leaving the heavy gear behind in favor of being fully there to savor the experience.

Snapping away gives you the best opportunity to capture those spontaneous smiles that warm your heart like the one on this proud and doting grandmother in Yangshuo, China.

Resolution 3: Keep calm and carry on.
It’s hard to remember the last time we didn’t carry on baggage - even for trips spanning several weeks. It’s now our accepted way of travel. After all, you’re likely to wear the same stuff over again as you gravitate toward your wardrobe travel favorites and there’s always laundry service. Avoid lost luggage, eliminate extra fees and simplify your travel choices by packing to carry-on. It’s a truly liberating and calm inducing.

We ditched the baggage and lightened our load for this road trip through Death Valley National Park. Yes, this outfit got a lot of repeat wears, but who really cares in the middle of a desert?

Resolution 4: Seek the ordinary to receive the extraordinary.
It pays to be cheap. That’s what guided us out of our hotel to find a local laundromat to wash our clothes in Madrid, Spain. If you apply Resolution 3, you’re likely to experience this firsthand. It not only helped us land a great local breakfast, but became a cherished memory of trying to navigate the streets of Madrid armed with a plastic bag filled with dirty laundry.

Don holds our bag of clean laundry. In the background is the pizzeria where we had one of the best breakfasts of the trip.

Resolution 5: Take it easy and ditch the itinerary.
A little research and game plan removes the stress of figuring out how to make the most of your travel days. But each day should be based on your energy level and mood first. I need to remember that my travel to-do list is merely a suggestion and to prioritize our must-see and must-do items first. The best experiences come from getting off the beaten path a bit.

Tired of being in a constant state of travel, we changed course and traded a multi-hour car ride for a visit to this market in Lijiang, China.

Resolution 6: Tune into my travel partner.
When you’re traveling with your husband - or anyone for that matter - remember it’s not all about you. While it’s good to push one another to do new things we wouldn’t necessarily try on our own, it’s important to consider whether seeing that museum with yet another porcelain collection is really worth it. After all, it’s more fun to reminisce over photos where you both enjoyed the experience. That’s the sweetest reward.

Traveling well as a pair requires a little give and take. Don followed me to this late-night eatery churning out churros and chocolate into the wee Madrid hours.

With a little reflection and applying some lessons learned, here’s to making 2013 a travel year to remember.

Central Park amusement

Sun, 09 Sep 2012 08:01:00 -0500

There’s no place quite like Central Park. It’s a must-see every time we’re in New York City.

This priceless acreage sculpted by granite rocks, lakes, meadows, trees, bridges and pathways is such an oddity surrounded by Manhattan’s skyscrapers. While it offers a respite from the quick pace of the city outside its perimeter, its New York-bred commercialism is evident as street vendors and performers hustle to make a living.

Within a 15 minute span, we watch a man create prisimatic, human-consuming bubbles, a model getting primped for a photo shoot and a yogi performing painful-looking poses that make the empathetic observer want to curl up into a fetal position.

That’s just what tantalizes you by sight.

Just as mesmerizing are the sounds of the park - children playing, runners pounding the pavement, cyclers whizzing past and musicians performing. We stroll from one genre to the next as we cross the invisible sound barriers within the park - the distance at which one musician can perform without interrupting the competition.

In some spots, no barriers exist. The result is a beautiful cacophony that is uniquely New York.

Getting a taste of Harlem

Tue, 04 Sep 2012 08:30:22 -0500

Wanting to experience a new part of New York City, we decided to sign up for a Harlem tour. In full disclosure, our stomachs led us here.

The idea for the trip started with the recommendation to eat at the Red Rooster, the hot new soul-food-with-a-twist creation of Chef Marcus Samuelsson.

As part of my extensive research, I Googled “best Harlem tour” to find the Harlem Heritage Tourism & Cultural Center. I figured we couldn’t go wrong with such an authoritative name.

Just down the street from our lunch destination, we found our tour headquarters - an eclectically decorated storefront with posters, pictures and furniture scattered throughout the modest space.

Joseph, who I spoke with on the phone to reserve the tour, welcomed us with a big smile. A few minutes later after getting to know our fellow tourists, the owner Neal gave a passionate recap of his Harlem roots and the leaders who shaped the neighborhood’s development and the civil rights movement.

Then Neal handed us over to our guide Andy, who bragged that he was just a few days shy of his 85^th birthday.

Colorful, liberal, animated and sharp as a tack, Andy outpaced us by about 10 steps most of the tour.

He shared stories of his own youth as he pointed out prominent residences, former speakeasies, churches, stores and eateries.

Harlem is making a comeback based on the real-estate prices Andy related. It’s easy to see why after an easy subway ride into Harlem from Central Park South and witnessing the hearty character of its brownstone residences, churches and other architectural gems.

It certainly helps that new residents like Marcus Samuelsson are moving into this gritty yet historically elegant part of Manhattan. Just opened in 2010, his restaurant Red Rooster stands like a proud crowing beacon, bringing fresh flavor to this historic neighborhood.

Framing the kitchen, which takes center stage as you walk into the restaurant, is a black-and-white wall lettered with recipes. The copper, metallic tones of the decor are inviting and the wait staff is as warm as the cornbread served with sweet honey butter and tomato jam.

For added comfort, we paired our corn bread starter with a spinach salad topped with radishes, caperberries and goat cheese. For the main course, an order of the fried yard bird is a must. The chef owner’s grandmother’s recipe of meatballs served with lingonberries, braised green cabbage and dill potatoes is another good call and a fitting homage to the chef’s Swedish roots.

Before we left, the waitress took us downstairs to show us Ginny’s Supper Club, a modern interpretation of the bygone days of speakeasy glamour. Next time, she suggests we come here for a special menu of food, fun and dancing.

While our official Harlem tour ended at the Red Rooster, it also started here with lunch. We had come full circle, but left with a belly full and mind open to new ideas about what it’s like to live as a New Yorker.

Juicy burgers, gossip worth the waitOur foodie friends...

Fri, 31 Aug 2012 08:52:15 -0500

Juicy burgers, gossip worth the wait

Our foodie friends recommended it and we wholeheartedly agree. The Shake Shack at Madison Square Park in New York City turns out some awesome burgers.

Sure. Around lunchtime you’re likely to wait in line a while. But take advantage of the time for some juicy eavesdropping among fellow patrons as you contemplate your best burger move. Within a few minutes, we overheard a young investment-banker type confess to his friend the pending pressure and subsequent fear of marriage to his girlfriend. This is meaty stuff.

What to order? You can’t go wrong topping off a classic burger with a deep-fried, cheese-stuffed Portobello mushroom. They also do fries the way they’re meant to be savored – crinkle-cut, of course. The added surface area of the cut provides the perfect ratio of crispiness to mushy potato goodness. Go all out and add the namesake shake to round out your experience - and your waistline.

So shake up your New York eats next time with some serious burger flavor while taking in a beautiful park. The lights strung across the trees make me think it would be a fun place to dine in the evening, too. Whether day or night, you won’t look at burgers quite the same way.

Checking out The New York Public Library

Tue, 28 Aug 2012 17:21:00 -0500

Was it the word “tour” or “library” that left my husband scratching his head as I explained my plan for our next grand adventure?

We had three nights in New York City and I wanted to make the most of our short stay. A few years ago on a family trip, I had a glimpse of The New York Public Library Stephen A. Schwarzman Building at Fifth Avenue and 42^nd Street. I remember how the experience left me wanting more. In my travel language, “more” translates into “tour.”

We joined about 20 others on a one-hour jaunt through this transporting place. Tours are offered at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. Mondays through Fridays and 2 p.m. on Sundays, except when it’s closed on Sundays in the summer.

The reservoir that provided New York City’s water supply used to occupy the site where the library now stands. It took two years to dismantle it before the library could be built. Part of the reservoir’s foundation can be seen from the South Court Lobby.

In the left photo, look down the stairway to see the reservoir foundation. At right, our tour guide explains how the exterior walls of the original building had to remain intact as part of the library’s expansion. The photo below shows the connection between old and new.

Completed in 1911, the Beaux-Arts building was the largest marble structure ever attempted in the United States at the time.

Colorful marble came from countries including Germany, France and Italy. Some of the building’s white marble even came from the same quarry used to build the Parthenon in Greece.

One of the questions our guide said she frequently gets is “where are the books?” That’s when she took us to a tucked away corner where we could peer through the windows to see rows upon rows and levels upon levels of books.

Simply fill out a book-request form, hand it to the librarian and within 30 minutes your order arrives on a dumb waiter in the reading room. Forget about taking any of the books home with you. That’s forbidden, along with taking pictures on one side of the reading room. Why do I love to learn that lesson the hard way? Sometimes ignoring the signs and asking for forgiveness works. Other times, it’s just plain embarrassing.

Protected behind glass in the football-field-size, seven-story-tall, chandeliered reading room is the first Gutenberg Bible to come to the United States. It’s one of 180 copies originally printed.

Also stored in the library and displayed around the Fourth of July is one of Thomas Jefferson’s copies of the Declaration of Independence penned with his own hand.

Other items of interest include Charles Dickens’ manuscript of “A Christmas Carol” with notes in the margins, Virginia Woolf’s last diary entry, a pair of Jack Kerouac’s glasses, an early map showing California as an island and the original stuffed animals that inspired the creation of Winnie-the-Pooh books. However, many of these quirky heirlooms require a reservation and academic reason to see them.

Other inspiring rooms in The New York Public Library.

Tours also are offered for the Lunch Hour NYC exhibit that runs through Feb. 17, 2013.

It’s a fun step back in time revealing how the lunch hour evolved over the past century – from the quick lunch spurred by punch clocks and pocket watches to the Automat with meals appearing behind glass doors where only a nickel inserted into a slot stood between you and lunch.

The American diet craze, street vendors, power business lunches and charitable school lunch programs also take center stage in the exhibit.

I didn’t expect to get engrossed in the topic, but I did. I should know by now that anything wrapped around food is going to hold my attention.

Libraries are magical places. There’s something about walking into a structure that holds enormous amounts of knowledge accessible to anyone. It symbolizes the potential to improve any person’s life and, ultimately, make dreams come true.

I have fond childhood memories of library trips with my mom. I loved the empowered feeling that came with toting home a load of books on any subject that interested me.

As pointed out by the New York Public Library Guide, some of the earliest beneficiaries of the library were the recently arrived immigrants for whom the library provided insight into their new country as well as their heritage.

President William Howard Taft said in his speech at the library’s opening, “The dedication of this beautiful structure for the spread of knowledge among the people marks not only the consummation of a noteworthy plan for bringing within the grasp of the humblest and poorest citizen the opportunity for acquiring information on every subject of every kind, but it furnishes a model and examples for other cities … .”

While libraries continue to redefine themselves in this instant, digital information age, The New York Public Library stands as one visible, solid pillar of the power of knowledge.

Front door of The New York Public Library. No need to knock. Knowledge is accessible to all.

Read this: Mandarin Oriental wins in details

Tue, 14 Aug 2012 07:52:00 -0500

Location. Location. Location. That’s our motto when deciding where to stay in New York City. For us, settling in around Central Park is a must, especially in the summer.

This time the Mandarin Oriental near Columbus Circle fit the bill. Its access not only to the park but also many subway lines make navigating the city a snap.

We got a special deal through Magellan Vacations for a room on the 53^rd floor facing Central Park.

While I missed the grand lobby feel you get with The Plaza Hotel or Waldorf Astoria, the stellar Central Park view is a nice tradeoff.

You enter the hotel off of 60^th Street and take an elevator up 35 floors to get to the front desk and main lobby. While the Dale Chihuly clear-glass crane sculpture rising from a moss garden is stunning, the floor-to-ceiling glass window facing Central Park is even more impressive.

The fitness center offered a 36^th-floor view with an ample variety of top-end exercise equipment and a beautiful 75-foot lap pool. There wasn’t a lot of space to stretch, but plenty of room to get in a good workout.

What made the Mandarin Oriental standout is its attention to details. There were plenty of outlets and an IT storage center with an assortment of cords to make sure you can connect with the world outside your modern posh room should you decide to never leave. Even with the city beckoning, it’s a tempting option here.

My favorite feature was the bedside reading stack that included a bookmark and three books from which to choose.

If you happen to get into one you can’t put down, the hotel simply advises to take it home with you. So we quickly packed all three for our trip home along with the towels, robes and slippers. Just kidding, Mandarin Oriental!

If you feel the need for relaxation on your journey to the Big Apple, grab a book, lounge on the couch next to the window overlooking Central Park and settle in for some reading time or a nap. Either way, you’ll love your room with a view.

Beyond Brooklyn Bridge

Sat, 11 Aug 2012 09:28:36 -0500

We were primed to see the Brooklyn Bridge having just watched Ken Burns’ documentary on the landmark. At the time it opened in 1883, the bridge was called the eighth wonder of the world.

It wasn’t our first time to marvel at it, but we were certainly more well-informed this time around. Little did we know that one of the two tower foundations doesn’t rest on bedrock. I think it’s safe to say it’ll hold at this point.

If you’re planning a trip to see it, watch the one-hour documentary to get an appreciation for the struggles that came along with building the largest suspension bridge of its day.

I admit. We were hungry and slightly cranky by the time we arrived in Brooklyn. An airline and rerouted flights earlier that day were partially to blame.

Our original lunch plans at Grimaldi’s Coal Brick-Oven Pizzeria were ditched as soon as we saw the line snaking around its exterior.

As we passed by the barred windows, we watched the men in white uniforms preparing the famed pizza. So close and yet so far. Next time we’ll come earlier.

Walking the streets just beneath the bridge in search of food on a busy Sunday is not a good idea. Thanks to my husband’s attention-deprived stomach and sense of urgency, we ended up scoring a memorable meal and view.

At the concession Ditch Plains Drop In in Brooklyn Bridge Park, we dined on what my hubby calls one of the best sloppy joe sandwiches of his life.

I went all out and ordered the lobster roll. Wow. The sweetness of the fresh potato roll, the hefty chucks of lobster and the lemony mayo dressing made for an incredible sandwich. Add to that the park-bench seats facing the Brooklyn Bridge and I’d call it a five-star dining experience.

Lobster roll at Ditch Plains

He told me so - and he was so right. Thanks to my husband’s hunger pangs, we stopped searching and landed at this great lunch spot in Brooklyn Bridge Park.

Based on its line and another credible source, we should have stuck around for dessert at the Ice Cream Factory.

We were especially interested in checking out Brooklyn Bridge Park because its same landscape architect, Michael Van Valkenburgh Associates, is developing a prized section of our hometown’s riverfront property in Tulsa.

Based on what we saw, we won’t be disappointed. There was plenty of room to roam and sections for all ages and adventure types.

Above is the Peir 1 Playground and some people chillin’ on the Bridge View Lawn.

Our brief tour of Brooklyn reminded us that there’s more to see just beyond Manhattan. On our next visit, some other to-dos recommended by our concierge and friends will include:
- Taking a bicycle tour
- Exploring Vinegar Hill and Court Street
- Eating at Grimaldi’s followed by ice cream in Brooklyn Bridge Park

With even more to see, do and eat, we now heart Brooklyn, too.

Iguanas, sea turtles and other sightings around Manzanillo

Mon, 23 Jul 2012 17:30:00 -0500

I’ve visited several resort towns in Mexico. Part of the fun is venturing out of the more polished, sanitized version of the place to experience its authentic side.

In Manzanillo, I felt the closest to getting real in Mexico.

Invest in local guides
It always pays in to hire a local guide to show you around. It provides an added level of comfort to explore a little deeper than you might do on your own in an unfamiliar locale – although that can be fun, too.

We hired two charming and entertaining guides, Memo and Donato, on different days of our trip.

Memo and Donato

With Memo, we explored downtown Manzanillo, driving by its massive port and coal-fired power plant.

The billowing smoke that filled our view from our villa across the bay now had a source. Thinking it had come from some random fires or geologic abnormality would have been more comforting. Grafitti-covered riprap made this picture-imperfect moment complete and left us ready to quickly move on to our next stop.

We got a real-world feel of the town of 150,000 when Memo parked the car while we strolled around the hustling, bustling downtown area. Among the traffic-jammed streets, there were lots of shops, a historic old hotel, vendors selling fruit and ice-cold drinks from carts, and people settling into their lunchtime meals.

Manzanillo is named after a tree bearing poisonous fruit that no longer exists in the town. Instead, palm trees imported from the Philippines are a more common sight.

Watch your step
One stop on our tour was the Iguanario. Let’s just say these iguanas give bunnies a run for their money in the reproduction department.

The man who ran the iguana farm gets overripe fruit and produce from area vendors to feed the spiky creatures of varying sizes.

They’re on the ground, roofs, walls and trees – so many places you’ll want to watch your step. They’re everywhere. And they’re kind of freaky.

In addition to a roaming rooster, various caged fowl and a pool of turtles, they also had a leashed coatimundi that looked like a cross between an anteater and raccoon.

In one of the kiosks, an out-of-place furniture repair shop was in full operation. Just a stone’s throw from slithering iguanas were two men at work – one staining a chair and the other sewing the wicker seat of a wooden rocker.

It was a bizarre but memorable experience.

Outside the city limits
For our next adventure with Donato, another driver from Humber Tours, we stepped outside the city limits of Manzanillo to explore banana, mango, lime and papaya groves.

Although not in commission at the time, we stopped by a sea salt extraction operation near Manzanillo’s lagoon. The ground is sectioned off into hundreds of flat areas and covered with plastic sheets. Seawater from the lagoon is pumped onto the sections, leaving the hot sun to make the rest of the magic happen. After the water evaporates, voilà, the salt is ready to be collected and stored.

We ventured out farther to the more modest vacation beach town of Cuyutlan to visit the Centro Ecologico de Cuyutlan, El Tortugario. The primary purpose of the sanctuary is to protect marine turtles nesting on the beach. It also supports conservation efforts of the area’s lagoon and its inhabitants including crocodiles and, yes, more iguanas.

The largest area of the center is dedicated to pools filled with sea turtles at various stages of their lives and reproductive cycles. In one area, you can pet the shells of the turtles and in another you can hold a baby sea turtle.

The incubation house stores stacks of Styrofoam coolers filled with dirt and hundreds of ping-pong-size sea turtle eggs harvested from the nearby black sand beach.

Change of scenery
The best part of getting outside of Manzanillo is watching the changing terrain. It feels like a rain forest in sections, but in others there are wide open fields with rows upon rows of palm trees outlined with a faint, straight line of fog below their branches at certain times of the day.

Tropical, lush, humid and alive – Manzanillo has something for everyone.

Flavor potluck with a badass jaca

Wed, 18 Jul 2012 20:40:02 -0500

When we stopped by a rustic roadside fruit stand on the outskirts of Manzanillo, Mexico, I wasn’t expecting to eat anything, much less a spiked fruit the size of a large watermelon called a jaca.

Our guide Donato told us when you open a jaca, also known as jackfruit, you never know what flavor you’ll get – coconut, papaya, mango, pineapple? When I tried a taste, it reminded me of all of those fruits, but was distinctly its own.

Look at it. This fruit just looks badass.

Getting inside for a taste is no easy task, but the payoff is as big as this fruit.

I asked for a place to wash off the stubborn sap-like residue from my jaca-handling experience. Donato pointed out the huge plastic blue bin of still water with a well-worn, dirt-stained bar of soap next to it. It did the job.

For our next leap of faith, we ordered the jaca juice from a large wooden barrel. The smiling girl ladled the sweet, slightly bitter juice into a cup.

Having been told not to drink the water in Mexico hundreds of times, I knew better. But I did it and lived to tell about it incident-free. Sometimes you just have to go for it.

(Disclaimer: Don’t go for it unless you have a stomach of steel, as apparently I do. My stepdaughters didn’t fare so well. Montezuma’s revenge struck upon our return.)

As crazy as it might sound, the fruit stand experience was a trip highlight. I love seeing how others live and watching the locals beam with pride as they show you something unique about their culture.

The smile on your face acts like a mirror, reflecting the happiness that comes from sharing and learning. If only we could bottle that wonder and feeling of discovery, and use it in all of our experiences with others not quite like ourselves. The world would be a better place.

Next time you get to try something different like visiting a fruit stand in rural Mexico, stop, taste (with caution) and smile. You never know what flavor you’ll get.

Finding peace in Mexico

Sun, 15 Jul 2012 13:43:26 -0500

“Peaceful” is how our driver Donato described what he liked most about living in Mexico.

The comment seemed ironic considering all I’d read about Mexican drug cartels and in the midst of the July 1 presidential election. All of the above had given us serious pause before bringing our kids to Manzanillo, Mexico, for vacation.

Donato had experience living in the United States, so he could offer a fair assessment. Why is it more peaceful in Mexico? His answer: No Los Angeles traffic. Point well taken.

Feeling the heat
We couldn’t have arrived during a worst time of year weather-wise. In a location known for an almost year-round temperate climate, June and July are its hottest and wettest months.

It offers the kind of heat and humidity that envelops you like your own personal sauna. Add to that the limited air-conditioning of our partially open-air villa and you’ve got a serious motivating force to plant yourself under a fan or inside a body of water for most of the day. Let’s just say tennis and other forms of movement are quickly ruled out as sources of entertainment.

We were warned of the heat, but it was the only time that worked with our family’s schedule.

Best prize: family memories
During a charity auction, we “won” the seven-night stay at Villa Aves del Paraiso in Manzanillo’s exclusive La Punta residential area.

I’ll blame it on my husband – and the wine. Just when the bidding peaked and we lost, a miraculous second trip materialized at our asking price. With eyes upon us, there was no looking back. It was a done deal.

All of my whining about the heat aside, the prize ended up being a fun stay and unique experience. It was just what our family needed – time to be together without the pressure of being on the constant go to see things. We were our own entertainment and being together was more important than what we were doing. To me, that’s what a meaningful family trip is all about.

Lay of the villa
The villa included four bedrooms, a pool, open-air living spaces, multiple balconies and its own staff to cater to our every need.

Concierge/owner … check. Driver for the aging, shop-prone Volkswagen van … check. Daily laundry service … check. Smiling bartender/houseman … check. Most importantly, happy and talented chefs … check.

Haley, Cande and Ricardo

Cande prepares fruit for breakfast and Maria peels the shrimp for dinner

Hearty breakfasts, midday snacks called botanas served with sweetly blended concoctions, and three-course dinners became our new norm.

We mixed our days with visits to the neighborhood’s private beach, time lounging by the pool, and trips to explore the area outside our compound.

Port of call
Our deck overlooked the bays of Manzanillo and Santiago. Across the water we could see downtown Manzanillo along with the coal-fired smokestacks that drive its power and cargo ships that fuel its commerce.

While tourism is a big part of its economy, about 60 percent of Mexico’s imports come through the city’s port.

There’s something cool and mysterious about seeing the ships stacked with colorful cargo bins pass through this area during fog-filled mornings and evenings, slowly making their way to and fro port.

From our vantage point, tourism and commerce complement each other beautifully in Manzanillo. The combination also provides a slightly different take on a Mexican resort town, giving more depth to our family vacation. Peaceful indeed.

Getting your groove in Eze after dark

Mon, 09 Jul 2012 18:25:42 -0500

After four days in Cannes, France, it was time for a change of pace. We caught our new stride in the hilltop medieval village of Eze.

What is packed with tourists during the day becomes a romantic respite by late afternoon.

As the crowds dissipate, the jasmine concentrates into a heady aroma, making it a treat to follow your nose around the village with a population just shy of 3,000. Each step along its narrow, curvy stone paths takes you farther away from your everyday reality and deeper back in time.

When it feels like you’re the only one in the village, it’s easy to let your mind wander to distant days when wine cellars and stables replaced souvenir shops. Trading hands with several rulers since its beginnings that date back to Roman times, Eze finally became a part of France for good in the 1800s.

A wedding or other celebratory event had just wrapped up when we visited the village’s only church, Our Lady of the Assumption. The Baroque church was built between 1764 and 1778 to replace an old one that had fallen into disrepair.

According to one source I found, the building materials including the limestone cut in the quarry of Saint Laurent of Eze were carried to the village by men. Walking the steep, winding streets, I can’t even imagine.

There are two hotels in which to stay in Eze Village. We chose Chateau Eza – the uppermost hotel with postcard-perfect views of Saint Jean Cap Ferrat, Antibes, Cannes and Saint Tropez. On a clear day, we’re told you can see the island of Corsica.

Be sure to book one of the hotel’s 12 rooms early along with dinner reservations at its Michelin-star restaurant, especially if you plan to stay during high season.

From the valet pickup of your car and luggage at the base of the hill to its welcome champagne cocktail and appetizers on the private veranda for arriving guests, the hotel staff doesn’t miss a detail in making sure your stay is as memorable as its views.

We had made reservations for dinner when we booked the room about nine months prior, but we had no idea we would get its best seat for two – our own private balcony overlooking the Mediterranean.

The chef had created one of the best tasting menus of our French Riviera trip, which started with a slightly sweet, caramelized foie gras and came full circle with an intricately designed chocolate wafer and other edible structures atop scoops of salty caramel ice cream for dessert.

Just when we thought it couldn’t get better, a fireworks show in Saint Jean Cap Ferrat topped off the experience. We toasted our good fortune and our thanks to whomever arranged the show.

As tourists arrived, we took off for Monte Carlo to see its famous casino. There’s only so much you can do in Eze, so plan day trips accordingly.

For 10 Euros each, it’s well worth touring the casino before it opens. Designed by architect Charles Garnier, the same person responsible for the old opera house in Paris, it’s a vision to behold. We had the place to ourselves, which made walking through its gilded interiors, private salons and glittering bars even more special.

I’m not a gambler, but it would be fun to stay one night in Monte Carlo and get dressed up to experience the casino spectacle firsthand. There’s always next time.

Upon return to Eze and about an hour before the 7 p.m. closing time, we visited the Le Jardin d’Eze.

It has a great collection of desert cacti, shrub and flowers – and, of course, the best view from its panoramic vantage point on top. Some of the original walls of the fortress remain and several placards educate on Eze’s early days.

Two nights in Eze is ideal. Chateau de la Chevre d’Or, the village’s other hotel, offers another Michelin-star dining experience. Or if you’re looking for something more casual as we were by our last night, La Taverne turns out some good Italian dishes including pizza.

It’s a convenient one-minute stroll from our hotel and nice location for an outdoor dinner surrounded by the village’s formidable walls.

It’s the kind of place where it’s easy to pick up a conversation with fellow diners, as we did with a couple from San Francisco.

If you’re looking for a storybook ending to a week in the French Riviera, Eze is just what the author ordered.

Making ourselves at home in Cannes

Sun, 08 Jul 2012 09:12:36 -0500

The French Riviera is filled with intriguing towns to explore along its coastline and into its countryside, but take the time to get to know your home base. For us, that was Cannes for the first part of our trip.

For a quick city tour, you can board the efficient yet cheesy, gleaming white tourist train on La Croisette that takes you on an abbreviated tour. Instead, we made our own tracks.

A nice way to start the day is a walk to the Forville market. It’s open every day except Monday, when it converts to an antiques market. Find a cafe there or along the way for a coffee and light bite to eat. You’ll want to save room for bigger food plays later in the day.

After visiting the covered, open-air market of artfully displayed veggies, fruit, flowers and pastas, head up toward the town’s medieval castle to get a better view of Cannes and its harbor.

Along the way, check out one of the flea markets set up around town. It feels as if you’re getting an intimate glimpse into a French family’s life as your peruse the odds and ends.

Upon reaching the top of the castle, we watched what we assumed was a maintenance worker scaling its clock tower. The views from the square are hard to beat.

If you’re interested in seeing a collection of musical instruments from all over the world and other art from the area, visit the castle’s new resident, Musée de la Castre.

We were more interested in spending our time among the yachts below.

It’s fun to witness all of the preparations and maintenance work that goes into running these expensive toys. The crews’ perpetual motion appears to be in sync with a constant fight against the elements to keep their ships and accessory jet skis and motorboats in tip-top shape.

From the harbor, continue along the public and private beaches of La Croisette. About five blocks past our home at the InterContinental Carlton Hotel, we discovered our favorite lunch gem of the trip, proving once again that the less-expensive, family-run restaurants are the diamonds in the rough worth seeking.

At La Creperie de la Croisette, Don ordered the “American” sandwich stuffed with steak, cheese, fries and aioli sauce. It was ham and cheese crepes with a lightly dressed side salad for me.

Damon, our impromptu dining companion, would have taken whatever dropped from our table.

He wasn’t picky and for good reason. The restaurant turned out some fine fare. No stray, the waitress claimed Damon and took him for a walk at one point during our meal.

The French love their little dogs, and they are a common sight at many restaurants.

With a morning of touring in and belly full, settle into a spot on the beach, kick back and enjoy what’s left of the day from your sandy perch of choice. Just be sure to work in a few more strolls. Working up an appetite for a late dinner by American standards – typically around 8:30 or 9 here – is a serious pursuit in this foodie paradise.

For a special treat, dine at Le Mas Candille in Mougins, and splurge with the tasting menu. The chef deserves your full trust.

When making reservations, request a seat on the terrace to enjoy the countryside view, sweet floral smells and cool breeze. From first sight to last bite, every course takes you on a culinary journey and promises sweet memories as you reminisce about the experience down the road.

Give this special dinner last-night placement in your itinerary. Even though you’ll drop some cash to take a taxi there, it’s worth the investment in a stress-free drive and a night to remember.

Antibes from outside in

Tue, 03 Jul 2012 18:12:12 -0500

A little map challenged, we started our day-trip tour of Antibes, France, on the outskirts of the historic town center. We were just happy to find a parking garage after navigating our way from Cannes – not an entirely easy feat in itself - but pulled the trigger prematurely still blocks away from our destination.

We purchased a cup of joe and a helpful waiter’s orienting skills to pinpoint our location on a city map. It was a fortunate mistake because it gave us a better feel for new and old. Otherwise, we would have missed the courtyard in front of the Grand Hotel with water fountains percolating at varying heights from its pavement.

I had visited Antibes with my siblings for my dad’s 60^th birthday celebration 16 years prior, so some of it was coming back to me as we meandered the streets Picasso and Hemingway once covered.

We grabbed lunch at Le Michelangelo in its sunlit, but hot annex building. While the appetizer focaccia bread with caramelized onions, spaghetti pomodoro and mushroom ravioli were good, the stuffy sunroom was not. If you go on a warm windless day, be sure to sit in the much more cool, romantic and cave-like restaurant.

The yacht scene in Antibes’ harbor rivaled that of Cannes, especially the sand-colored vessel with a helicopter sitting atop it.

It’s worth a walk around the ancient naval fortress wall to take it in and peek through its lookouts to watch the sunbathers and swimmers on the beaches below.

Not sure what words to form to describe this white letter-filled statue of a man overlooking the Mediterranean. I couldn’t help but think of my next Words With Friends’ play with my dad. Called “Nomade,” Catalan artist Jaume Plensa installed the knee-hugging figure in 2007.

One source I found online describes the letters as representing living cells. It shows how our skin is permanently tattooed with our life and experiences – invisible until a friend or lover is able to decipher these tattoos.

Stepping back from 21^st to 20^th century modernism, we worked our way through the heart of Antibes’ historic area to find the Picasso Museum. We were spoiled having seen his more impressive museum and masterpiece, Guernica, in Barcelona and Madrid a few months before our visit.

Black-and-white photographs offered a unique glimpse into Picasso’s six-month stint in 1946 working at Chateau Grimaldi, where the museum now resides along with its signature piece, La Joie di Vivre. It also was fun seeing a sample of his prolific collection of ceramics.

Unfortunately, no photos allowed inside, but I did capture a piece outside by Joan Miro. The museum’s exterior terrace facing the sea includes several sculptures by Picasso, too.

The best part of exploring the patchwork towns along the Cote d’Azur is noticing the everyday with childlike wonder. That’s why I sometimes like to leave the guidebook behind, as difficult as that can be for the planner in me.

With my nose out of the book, I begin to see more – the fishtail pattern of a narrow cobblestone path, the detailed wood carving on a church door, the shadows of bougainvillea against a bright orange-yellow wall, the curvy grate covering a shutter and the iron spigots of a centuries-old watering hole.

What I like about day-tripping is how it heightens your senses. The short journey makes you pay attention. And while parting may bring such sweet sorrow, it’s a reminder to not look past and take for granted the beautiful details in our own lives back home.

Sous chef for a night

Wed, 27 Jun 2012 21:02:19 -0500

When the tall basket of produce arrived on our table we thought, “Really?”

Yes, we really were expected to pull out that hard-boiled egg, cucumber, tomato, celery stalk and other veggies of choice and get to slicing, dicing and cracking.

That’s the usual make-your-own-salad drill at Le Maschou in Cannes, France, and we loved it. Well, at least I did. My husband was less enamored with the idea of becoming sous chef for the night.

The InterContintental Carlton Hotel recommended Le Maschou, which we found up the romantic, narrow cobblestone street of Rue Saint Antoine. It’s a small place with about 10 tables inside spilling onto a balcony that accommodates just a few more.

The concierge suggested a smoke-free table away from the fireplace, where they cook three meats - beef, lamb and chicken. Our candlelit table’s location on the perimeter of the “inside” portion of the restaurant was ideally situated, allowing us to enjoy watching the people stroll by and the twilight transition into night.

For our meal, we chose the beef and lamb. Both had the perfect charring and were rare, but not what we’d call French rare, which is more like tartare to us.

Because I’m a salt addict, I appreciated that they served the meats with their own blend of seasoning salt that could be generously spooned on top.

The simple menu and casual feel satisfied what we craved after a few nights of more fancy-schmancy meals. But be warned: The prix fixe dinner provides ample portions - from the welcome sangria with chunks of edible orange rind floating in the glass to the final bowl full of chocolate mousse or other dessert of choice.

Come hungry and ready to find your inner chef. It’s worth the caloric splurge and making your own salad.

Get out: Rick Steves' commencement address

Sun, 24 Jun 2012 12:42:34 -0500

Get out: Rick Steves' commencement address:

I love Rick Steves’ message in his commencement address to Evergreen State College graduates. It’s worth a read to remind us why it’s important to keep a worldview and define our own success.

Can-do in Cannes

Sun, 24 Jun 2012 09:19:00 -0500

Our first lesson from the concierge at the InterContinental Carlton Hotel: Cannes is pronounced “can” as in “yes, can do.” For some reason, that seemed like a funny phrase coming from the mouth of the young, tall and proper Frenchman behind the counter, but it certainly was memorable.

We knew Cannes would be a scene of beautiful, tan people soaking up the sun and fun off of the Boulevard de la Croisette. After all, it’s Beverly Hills’ sister city and a star-studded mecca during the famous Cannes Film Festival that had just wrapped up the month before our visit.

The price of admission to eat at the beachside restaurant and sunbathe on the pier of the Carlton Hotel might have been steep, but when we noticed Pierce Brosnan dining just two tables away from us, the sticker shock lifted.

When booking a room at the Carlton, ask for one facing La Croisette on the sixth floor so you can watch the changing colors of the Mediterranean Sea speckled with yachts of all shapes and sizes from your own balcony. You won’t find balconies on the floors below.

Even if you’re not staying at the hotel, allow time for a cocktail on its terrace bar facing the active boulevard before dinner. It’s a front-row seat to some incredible people-watching and hard-to-beat sunsets overlooking the Bay of Cannes.

Regardless of whether you choose to stay at the InterContinental, check out the excellent concierge video tours and insider tips offered in the Explore the Area section of its website. We happily used several of its recommendations.

While the glitzy and out-of-wallet experience of Cannes might not be for everyone, there’s no denying it represents a lot of what the Riviera has to offer. It’s a good central location from which to explore other towns along the Cote d’Azur.

Sure, it’s excessive and takes conspicuous consumption to a new level as represented by the multimillion-dollar yachts passing time in its harbor, but within its fortress walls lies a heart filled with all you’d expect from a quaint French city. You just need to get off the well-worn red carpet of Cannes and walk its cobblestone streets to get there.